Celia B., the Asturian who designed the viral dress of 'Sex Education': «The day we took it out, we sold ten»

On many occasions, more difficult than looking for life in an unknown country thousands of kilometers away is returning to the place of birth after having overcome that experience. At least, that's what talent gurus often stress, referring to these people with bombastic terms like 'expat' or 'returnee'. For this reason, it is logical that, after two long decades away from Oviedo, Celia Bernardo returned home gave her vertigo. “She terrified me. She thought I wasn't going to fit in, and I gradually came back. I kept traveling a lot until the pandemic forced me to stay without going out », she acknowledges in her stately studio in the Asturian capital, with the cathedral chiming the hour in the background.

But Bernardo has smiled that luck that only works if she surprises you working. After having accumulated experience in the 'fast fashion' sector working for companies such as Zara or the Chinese Asobio, this designer decided to found her own brand in Shanghai, Celia B, betting on a model opposite to the one she had learned: very careful, daring garments and full of color, designed to last. Little by little she has been opening up markets around the world - she sells mainly in the United States and the Middle East - and now, by chance, the appearance of two of her dresses in the third season of the series 'Sex Education' has given an unexpected accolade to his brand.

-Actress Mimi Keene, who plays the role of Ruby, wears her model for a long time and draws her attention. How do you forge such a collaboration?

- When I was watching the second season, I thought that my designs matched perfectly with the aesthetics of the series and I decided to get in touch with the wardrobe manager, Rosa Dias, who immediately responded enthusiastically. In the middle of the pandemic, the production company called me to tell me that they had selected several garments, they bought them for me, and I signed a contract that stipulates that they do not commit to using them, because it is not an advertising campaign. I found out that they had chosen two dresses when I watched the series. They also filmed with a third party that in the end did not come out.

- What impact does something like this have for a modest brand? Does it translate into sales?

- Ruby's dress is from two years ago and it wasn't one of the best sellers at the time. But, as a result of the series, many have requested it and we decided to re-produce it in a special edition. The same day we put it out, we sold ten. For the brand, without a doubt, it is a source of pride and great recognition.

-Ruby's dress is characteristic of her style, with very colorful prints. However, the best seller is much more demure. How do you find the balance between what is commercial and what you really enjoy designing?

- I like all my models, but it is true that the Baba Dress, our flagship product, is not so distinctive. With time and experience I have known the public and I have learned to find that point of connection between my craziest ideas and what people like. That allows me to be original and continue to innovate without giving up producing clothes that people can wear. All designers know that there are designs for fashion shows and for the press, which reflect our creativity and provoke surprise, and others that are really going to sell

- Your brand has always been international and sales in Spain have not yet taken off. Why?

- I've been hiding a bit. First in Asia, and then in the United States, where I didn't need a lot of effort for the brand to catch on because there is a sector of the population with high purchasing power that is committed to differentiating itself with more niche designers. In Europe we are still very 'brand-oriented'. I think that in Spain there are more and more people who dare with color and I hope that it will only be a matter of time before the market opens

- The pandemic, social networks and the e-commerce 'boom' seem to have opened a new path for brands like yours.

- Yes. The market increasingly demands more differentiating products that are not so massive, it gives a vote of confidence to more independent proposals, and the networks have made it easier for small brands to reach an audience that would never be within our reach if we were only in one small shop in Oviedo. And, in addition, you no longer need a huge budget to achieve it.

- Defends the 'slow fashion'. However, it does not seem that e-commerce, with models such as free returns, is exactly conducive to sustainability.

- It is very unsustainable to order seven garments in different sizes to keep only one, especially if they come from Asia, and we need to discuss this more. In addition, luxury is still looking for great packaging that gives an experience that lives up to expectations, but at the expense of the planet. A hybrid model with small physical stores serving as fitting rooms, like my studio, and complemented by e-commerce is interesting and saves costs.

- It seems that fashion is increasingly polarized between those who seek quantity at low prices and those who can afford an increasingly prohibitive luxury.

- Yes. On the one hand, the products of the brands that create trends because they can manufacture massive quantities are increasingly simple and standardized. On the other hand, luxury is becoming more expensive because, in this scenario, it is difficult for us to find factories that are interested in products like ours, which are more complicated and have very short runs. They prefer the big brands that leave them more profit margin and, in the end, it is increasingly difficult to find something in between, which also makes it very difficult to compete in this highly polarized market.

- Celia B continues to produce in China and that sometimes provokes criticism. She tried to make in Thailand, but it didn't work out. What's going on?

- That it is very difficult to compete with China. People think that it is manufactured cheap and bad there, but this is not the case. There are qualities that have nothing to envy to those of Italy. China has invested a lot to be at the forefront while we have deindustrialized and there are many things that can no longer be produced elsewhere. In addition, I have created a good network of suppliers and I have very strong emotional ties with the people who have been working for me there for ten years.

- But now that all the big brands are trying to make their way there, you stop selling in China. Why?

- Because it is a very demanding market. Due to political decisions that I can hardly control, China is becoming more and more isolated and functions as a parallel world that is very protectionist. If the effort I make in marketing works for everyone except China, because it has its own networks and channels, the cost of an exclusive campaign is very high. And besides, you have to be there.