On World Day for the reduction of CO2 emissions, we focus on the fashion industry, the second most polluting in the world -second only to energy-, and we analyze how we can reduce the impact it has on the planet. More and more companies are concerned with trying to pollute as little as possible and opt for more sustainable models, and it seems that, little by little, the message is also penetrating among the population. However, despite the fact that for a few years there has been a clear transformation among fashion firms, the jewelery sector is somewhat behind in this regard, and there is still a long way to go. Spanish firms such as LeHona contribute their grain of sand to the cause by working in an artisanal way in workshops in our country with ethical and recycled materials. Its founder, María Serrats, explains what sustainable jewelry is and tells us what extra difficulties she has encountered when undertaking a project like hers in 2020, a time when, moreover, the consumption of clothing and accessories was minimal.
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I think we are all born creative, but depending on the choices we make in life, if we don't nurture that creativity, it withers or even gets lost. It is very important to listen and get to know each other. Do not pigeonhole ourselves by accepting our destiny as it is marked for us. “That inner call” came to me a year after my third daughter was born and I changed course. I thought that by creating my collection I could offer something to women that I couldn't find for myself, something that wasn't on the market, giving more weight to design, to the emotions that accompany buying a jewel and to sustainability. The latter is essential today. As much as possible, I want to contribute to not compromising the needs of future generations for actions we take in the present.
We live on an overpopulated planet where the natural resources we have are consumed at a faster rate than they can be generated, and we are also surrounded by economic models that are based on constant growth. Sustainable jewelry aspires to guarantee the balance between preserving and caring for the environment and its resources, economic growth and social well-being. In a culture of fast-paced consumption, at LeHona we rely on sustainable strategies and are committed to the made-to-order model. Each piece is made specifically for a customer as we believe this will minimize waste and impact on our planet. Our jewels are handmade by Spanish artisans with noble ethical materials of the highest quality, since we seek that sustainability, durability and being part of your family forever, in a responsible way. From generation to generation as the planet has been for us.
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We work with suppliers that guarantee ethical gold and verified diamonds from legitimate sources, not involved in conflicts and following United Nations regulations. It is a matter of priorities and choice, if you bet on it, even if the balance is costly, it is achieved. Fortunately, there are more and more suppliers that guarantee the sustainability of sensitive and responsible materials and consumers – increasingly on the rise and that is a sociological trend that allows sustainability to be a possibility.
First there is a creative process, where there are no rules, it is free. Through how I look at the world is how I then try to capture it in the pieces. When I am creating I realize that I am always looking and looking. Everything inspires me. Once I have the idea, I draw it on a computer or by hand and from then on jewelers are a key part of the process. Designs are prototyped in 3D, the final ones are printed in wax and melted in gold, a process called the Lost Wax Method. So, here we follow two paths, either we make molds of that molten metal to fill with wax for the next pieces or the pieces are re-prototyped. The latter is what we usually do as it guarantees that no detail of the design is lost.
Then they are all reviewed, to the last detail and if they are as we want them, depending on the designs, they are set, carved, etc. It is a process that is done by hand and to order. There are many hours of work, but when I have the jewel, finished, for the first time in my hands, the satisfaction is maximum, it is very gratifying to see ideas materialize and become reality.
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All medals are handcrafted, from the jewelry to the packaging, because I believe in supporting craftsmanship and sustainable business practices. I support artisans who have developed a craft, sometimes for generations, and value quality over quantity. We live in a fast-paced consumer society and I want to help slow down that pace by going back to the model made by hand and locally. Each piece is made specifically for a customer as I believe this will also minimize waste and impact on our planet.
I defend production in local workshops, although I could do it outside of Spain where it is cheaper, because I know that in this way I contribute to sustaining Spanish workshops that are beginning to be at risk of disappearing. In addition, the quality of the artisans I work with is excellent, something that is practically no longer available and I like being able to learn from them, work with them hand in hand, create together. I like to surround myself with the best teams.
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Lehona is not a brand that follows trends. We could consider it to be a slow jewelery brand, where I give free rein to my creativity, designing freely and without letting myself be pigeonholed by a trend. They are not pieces for a season, but for a lifetime, or more than a generation. Sustainability is in fashion now but in our case I want it to be real. The options that exist to create the pieces that I want are wide, yes, at a much higher cost due to the fact of following a sustainable model. As for the packaging, it is difficult to maintain the luxury standard if you make it sustainable, there are fewer options, and minimum quantities are difficult to fit. But I want to be true to my philosophy.
Sustainable pieces are more expensive to make and you have to spend more time searching for them and subsequently trace them. Jewelry is related to the mining industry, which is one of the industries that has the greatest harmful impact on the planet, so carrying out production in an artisanal and sustainable way, and applying principles of transparency and traceability, is key. But in order to apply these principles you have to be committed and willing to make it a more expensive process.
It has come to stay without a doubt. It is a problem that affects us all and I think that raising collective awareness helps to talk about it more and more, to make us more aware of the need to provide ecological, ethical and sustainable solutions. At the end of the day, it is trying to be empathic with our environment. And this makes us consider what to buy and what not.
It's a mix. It's trendy, but there are brands like LeHona that really believe in it. The important thing is that there is a personal conviction, an effort to embark on a different path and that sustainability in the brand is a reality. That the principle of transparency and traceability prevail.
Not only pay attention to what is said to be sustainable jewelry, but understand what is behind the words, what guarantees the brand offers and what the production processes and selection of materials are like.
