La logomanía va y viene en el terreno de las tendencias. En ocasiones, llevar el emblema de la firma que está de moda es una forma rápida de marcar estatus, elegancia o clase. Pero en otras, es sinónimo de ordinariez, mal gusto o, peor, de querer comprar con un logo la ausencia total de estilo. Hoy por hoy, influenciado por el apogeo de la moda deportiva -con la sneakers como epítome-, este tipo de símbolos están cada vez más presentes. Es una tendencia que va desde el lujo, con referencias como Gucci o Balenciaga, a marcas premium. En España es el caso de Silbon, el Ganso o Scalpers que están ganando terreno en un espacio que Ralph Lauren está dejando libre.
The American firm is not at its best. La compañía finalizó el primer trimestre de ejercicio con unos números rojos de 127,7 millones de dólares, frente a beneficio de 117,1 millones de dólares del mismo periodo del año anterior.In the same vein, sales fell 65.8% in the first quarter, up to 487.5 million dollars.These bad data infected with the pandemic could be extrapolated to other brands in the sector, since the textile industry has been one of the most affected by the Covid-19 crisis. Sin embargo, la marca norteamericana -como otras icónicas como Victoria's Secret- lleva varios años tratando de recuperar el brillo y la fortaleza que el siglo XXI (y los millennials) le están arrebatando.
Ralph Lauren consiguió el éxito en las dos últimas décadas del siglo XX gracias a una poderosa imagen de marca: la aspiración. Hijo de inmigrantes judíos del este de Europa, criado en el Bronx y apellidado Lifschitz , la propuesta que Ralph puso a disposición de sus clientes respondía al objetivo que él mismo se había marcado: ser millonario y, de paso, plenamente americano. Así, a través de la marca Polo, su icónico logo y su propia imagen, democratizó el estilo preppy americano, que basó en el mito del cowboy, la estética college de la Ivy League, el estilazo post Depresión y el look working class con tejanos y camiseta básica blanca.
Today, that logo seems that he has died of success, with numerous falsifications behind the back, and the youngest are no longer comfortable in that aspirational atmosphere.Now, they identify more with an iPhone, a hoodie and a brand sneaker.However, the influence vacuum that Ralph Lauren is leaving in Spain are assuming national signatures such as the goose, whistle and scalpers, who undertake the titanic task of cementing in a niche between the luxury brands and the giants of the fast fashion, withSpecial imprint in our country.
La firma El Ganso fue una de las pioneras en abrir la lata. Su nacimiento se debió gracias a una imagen muy clara: el estilo british del que los fundadores de la marca, los hermanos Álvaro y Clemente Cebrián (Madrid, 1975 y 1974), se encontraron en sus viajes a Londres.However, it was a way of dressing that could not be allowed.And so the business was born in 2006: "Classic clothing with roll and with an affordable price.They found the hole in the market and hit the first place on Fuencarral Street in Madrid, "explains the company.
Esa idea la quisieron materializar en un logotipo claro. Desde el comienzo, se empecinaron en que debía ser un animal que tuviera un punto gracioso, canalla y diferenciador.And after shuffling a few options they remembered what their grandfather told them when they were little and dressed cracking pants, taking their shirts and poles on the outside: "Stop doing the goose".There, the brand says, they were clear: "That had to be".
After almost two decades of business and falling different crises, even that of Coronavirus, perhaps the worst;The goose follows its path with a firm proposal between Fast Fashion brands and the Premium range: "The goose is characterized by having quality clothes at a good price and with a differentiated personality.This is where the goose found its space, "he explains.In fact, beyond the market space in which it moves, the brand understands that the most important thing "is never losing personality and that the pressure of the sector does not motivate you to do things that in the end are not yours".
Scalpers was born a little later, in 2007, in Seville, but also with a goal studied: to reinvent the classic, disagree the strict masculine fashion canons.A spirit and hallmark that moved to a risky logo: a skull."Es un símbolo de rebeldía contra los prejuicios y los cánones preestablecidos.It represents our spirit, that of a group of friends without any experience in the fashion sector that one day dreamed that things could be done in a different way, "explains Borja Vázquez, co -founder of the brand to this medium.
Thus, the Sevillian firm is growing outside and within our country with a casual aesthetic and with a color palette less contrasted than the goose.And, he is facing the crisis of the coronavirus with difficulty, like all, but with the same spirit of struggle, and rebellion of his origins."We are very clear about the road map and we are lucky to have a young, prepared, ambitious and very committed human team and that facilitates work without a doubt," he says.
In addition, they feel comfortable in their market space: "In this segment there are brands that provide great added value and that are doing very well internationally.It is a smaller space, but with more faithful and committed customers with their brands and that generates many possibilities ".
La última de este trio de herederos españoles de Polo Ralph Lauren es la marca Silbon, que nació en Córdoba en el año 2010. De las tres, quizá sea la más clásica porque entre sus clientes hay banqueros, abogados o notarios que tienen el traje casi como uniforme.A fixed clientele that, in addition, has allowed them to fall positive for the coronavirus pandemic. Sin embargo, en el catálogo de Silbon cada vez se ven más prendas casual y deportivas que llevan con orgullo el logo de la marca: unas raquetas de tenis cruzadas.An emblem that is born almost by chance.
The Cordoba brand tells this medium that the reason for the tennis rackets was part of the daring of one of the first photo shoots of the firm, which was made on the Fronton court of the co -founder and CEO of Silbon, Pablo Lopez Lopez."The photo shoot was a success and therefore, when the first store was opened, the image of the two cross rackets has already been part of the decoration.An occurrence of Pablo López to take the essence and good energy of that first shooting to the establishment, "explains the company.In principle, it was a memory but that customers liked.So Pablo, who was clear about the name Silbon because he was catchy, easy to remember and for his loudness, it occurred to him to join the logo of the two crossed rackets.
