En esta conversación, que tuvimos meses antes de las olimpiadas, Alberto Ginés nos transmitía cómo vivía su preparación para los Juegos Olímpicos, en los que su objetivo era dar lo mejor de sí mismo y descartaba la posibilidad de una medalla. Una preparación que ha llevado a cabo, casi en solitario, con su entrenador David Macia, viéndose obligado a viajar a otros países para poder entrenar en rocódromos adecuados. Alberto nos cuenta también el paso tan duro que tuvo que dar para poder entrenar: irse a vivir con 15 años al Centro de Alto Rendimiento de Sant Cugat, a muchos kilómetros de Extremadura.
This video-interview will help us to know this athlete better who began climbing at age 3 and that at 18 he has entered the history of sport by getting the first Olympic gold medal of climbing.
«I started competing internationally in 2016, four years ago.I had trained to qualify for the Olympic Games but I didn't see it possible.Nothing that happened this season I expected it.Everything has gone much better than we had planned.I can not complain.It has not only been to qualify for the games, they have also been my results in the World Cup.I wasn't among our goals to do so well ... I don't know why but everything has gone very well.This is what I like.It is what I want to do".
«Last year I went to live in Barcelona to train with David Macià.It has been the toughest part of my short career: go to live outside with 15 years.I don't live alone on one floor, I live at the San Cugat High Performance Center, but it's still hard.It is hard for me, but it is much more for my parents;that he stopped living with them with 15 years was something that was not in his plans.I was doing well in the Youth European Cup but we didn't sign up for that.Our main objective were the Olympic Games, but not these but those of Paris ".
«I still cannot train in conditions because we do not have facilities to prepare a World Cup or an Olympic Games, but at least I can train better than in the warehouse where I trained in Cáceres, which was a multi -purpose pavilion ... there were days when neitherWe could even train because they had to mount something and the space was occupied by cranes, machinery and tools ".
«To prepare the pre -Olouse pre -Olouse.There are facilities that are fine to spend their time with friends, but not to prepare international competitions.At the level we are preparing to compete have to be specialized climb.Not any wardrobe is valid to prepare a world cup ".
«Speed walls there are very few and those that are almost not used.You can only use Pamplona.We don't have it easy.I would like not to have to go to Austria to train a weekend to prepare a competition.I preferred to stay in Barcelona or in my house, but at the moment you can't ".
«Having had climbers like Ramón Julián or Patxi Usobiaga and that no climbing ones have been made ... and now with the Olympic Games they have not done either ... Let's see if with the boom of the Olympics we get that there are, not only for me but for allThe climbers of the country, to have a quarry to be able to compete, because the kids are not motivated to compete.If we don't have a quarry we will not have a very promising future.If there are better facilities there will be more people and more possibilities that there are more climbers competing.It is a cycle.We have the same support and the same facilities for 20 years.In that sense we have not evolved ".
«If you are in a rootom.If there were a climb.It is very rare that it coincides with other climbers to train.I notice much difference when I go to other countries such as Austria and you train with another climber.Motivation, performance, is different when you train with other climbers ".
«I am Extremadura, even if I live outside, it is my land, and I carry it by flag.In Extremadura there are no rock areas and neither facilities ".
«I am satisfied that there are good facilities.I don't ask much more.It's the only thing I need.Nor do I need a climber like innsbruck's for me alone.With little it is worth.If it is for the selection, to train people, it must be bigger.At the moment, if they mount something in the car that I am alone, I do not need something very big ".
«Yes, it would be good if there were more climbers at the High Performance Center, it would be good to motivate us, it would be important ... Every day I have to do three hours by train and back to be able to train in a climb.If I'm going to France, Germany ... it's a lot of distance and time.Other countries have high performance centers, such as France that I think has two, and in others it is the federation who has them ... but it is an issue that I don't know well ...."
«I get up, I'm going to class, study, how, I train and I'm going to sleep ... I don't do many hours.David Macià takes care of my training, I do what he tells me and we work well.I don't complain about how I am doing. Este años hemos estado haciendo una dieta que me marcaba él, no era demasiado extrema y me ha venido bien para perder unos kilos, algo que me ha ayudado bastante".
«Now I'm not climbing in rock.It is not something that worries me because the rock is there.The competition is not compatible with the rock;Nor is it something that worries me too much now. Ya escalaré en roca".
The Fighter´ (`El Luchador´)"«I compete with other climbers with which I have often been training before.The good atmosphere we have is what I like most about escalation. El mote que me tienen puesto los comentaristas de las federación internacional es “The fighter” («El Luchador") quizás van por ahí los tiros de cómo soy… no sé… SI me centro me centro.In competition I am quite concentrated and this is a positive point.
«Currently national competitions do not contribute too much.They are not comparable to international.Nor do I have much time because there are many competitions in which to participate, many times they coincide in international and nationals and they are not the goal either. SI puedo ir a alguna voy…"
«The level of climbers ... there are no climbers because there are no structures so that people are motivated to train.Competitions are not too good.We have no facilities to do competitions in conditions.It is a cycle .... El problema principal son las instalaciones".
"There have been people who have written articles that titled:" Why will there be no Spanish climbers at Tokyo's Olympic Games? "And I was training to participate in them and partly demotivated me because I thought "if the people of my country do not support me, do not believe it is possible ..."
"I have not had much support from the people ... my family, my friends and little else support me ... The Federation has also supported me a lot of this year .... Tampoco me puedo quejar".
«I take the life of a 17 -year -old kid.I do not go out, I'm not going to take anything with my friends at night.I focus on training and climbing. Ya tendré tiempo de hacer otras cosas".
«No estoy siempre motivado al 100% pero tampoco digo “¡Qué palo ir a entrenar!” Es fundamental así que… es lo que toca".
«My goal - Ir the Olympics - I have fulfilled it, and my expectations for the games are quite low.I will not get medals.I would like to get a gold or another medal, but I see it quite impossible.With going I am satisfied.I don't want to.I want to do well.Play a good role, but I'm not thinking about a position. Es imposible preparar las 3 disciplinas".
«To train difficulty I have been making crossings on wooden dams, I think they are not the best conditions to prepare a world cup.At the moment it is giving results.We also travel a lot. Vamos mucho a rocódromos de otros países y eso ayuda".
«Each equipment has its style.You have to adapt to all.Try to be good in everything.There is always a equipment that can be better or worse. El estilo puede ser más dinámico, más de regletas… hay que intentar estar preparado para todo".
«After each competition David Macià and I talked about what has gone well and badly ... but we don't give him many laps either. Como tenemos tantas competiciones tampoco tenemos tiempo para pararnos a pensar en cada una".
«I am a scholarship by the Podium scholarship program of Telefónica, it is the main support I have now. También hay marcas como La Sportiva que me ayudan bastante".
«Me veo terminando los estudios, la carrera y, luego, escalando mucho, viviendo de la escalada lo que dé y, luego, cuando me canse, empezaré a trabajar…"
«I like to go to Roca with friends but it's not something that caught my attention. Prefiero centrarme en el rocódromo y la competición".
«I started climbing with 3 years. Mi padre escalaba, me llevó un día, poco a poco me empezó a enganchar y hasta ahora… Empecé a competir hace cuatro años".
Other ideas that transmits us in this conversation:
Respecto a su tipo de escalada preferida nos dice: «Me gustan mucho las regletas… y el desplome…"
What he has supposed with him to compete so young with the best climbers in the world: «To see them on TV and ask for photos, to compete with them is a great change."
Sobre su planteamiento: «Me lo estoy tomando con bastante calma"